Madras cloth or bandana, as it is more commonly known, is a very popular fabric in Jamaica especially at Festival and other Independence celebrations. In fact, it is the characteristic feature of what is now referred to as the National Costume of Jamaica. The distinguishing, predominantly red, plaid cotton material is now also often used to make costumes for performers as well as for local beauty pageant contestants at international competitions.

However, the bandana is not unique to Jamaica. The word ‘bandana’ is actually derived from the Hindi word ‘bandhana’ meaning “to tie”. What's more, the original bandana is said to have been imported from India in the 18th century, hence the name Madras, indicative of its city of origin in India. This fabric was made from silk and had a tie-dyed pattern. However, British manufacturers later copied the idea and started producing a similar type of fabric, the major difference though being the material of choice, which was cotton because it was cheaper to use for mass-production.

In the 18th to 19th century, the bandana was used as a means of communication and identification, being mostly associated with indentured labourers and peasant women who used it to make headwraps, a tradition adopted from West African women. These headwraps served several functions, the first being to protect the head from the sun. They also helped in the balancing of load on the head. Symbolically, the way in which the headwrap was worn indicated the marital status of the wearer. Married women wore headwraps tied with the ‘cock’s tail’ knot. This knot was to the back of the head with two extended shoulder-length pieces of cloth, one above the other. The upper piece was folded into a shape reminiscent of a rooster’s tail, hence the name. On the other hand, single women wore headwraps with the knot to the side of the head with no extending pieces.

Headwraps also indicated the occupation of the wearer being that of a trader or labourer. Consequently, it also served to indicate the status of the wearer within the community; the higher the cock’s tail, the more respected the wearer.

Though the bandana was worn in the pre-emancipation period, its popularity catapulted in the post-emancipation period. This was due mainly to the availability of the fabric as a result of reduced costs. The silk-type bandana was more expensive and usually only available in small quantities, just enough to make a headwrap. However, with the introduction of the cheaper type of bandana, peasant women were able to afford more fabric and so were able to make any type of garment with it, including complete outfits.

The idea of a National Costume surfaced circa 1953, coinciding with the expected visit of the Queen of England. Approval was granted by the local government to use the term “National” in referring to the bandana dress. So, the first national dress was worn during the royal visit after which, the fabric was used mainly to make costumes for ceremonial and symbolic purposes.

References

Buckridge, Steve O., The Language of Dress: Resistance and Accommodation in Jamaica, 1760-1890.

Kingston: University of the West Indies Press, 2004.

Senior, Olive, Encyclopedia of Jamaican Heritage. St. Andrew: Twin Guinep Publishers, 2003.

Jamaican National Costume above courtesy of www.my-island-jamaica.com/jamaican_costumes.html